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A group of young people in the sunshine outdoors standing at a table eating

RELISH (Reframing European gastronomy Legacy through Innovation, Sustainability and Heritage) is an international project led by Durham that explores how we engage with food culture in a globalised world.

Academics from seven European countries are involved, and we caught up with Durham’s lead researcher Professor Rosi Song from our School of Modern Languages and Cultures to find out more. 

What is the RELISH project, and why is it important? 

Food is more than just nutrition; it plays a role in entertainment, the economy, tourism, and personal identity. However, while many people may enjoy cooking shows or travelling for food experiences, they may not fully understand why certain meals or traditions feel meaningful. 

RELISH examines how young adults (aged 18–25) form their food habits, especially in a world where they can access any cuisine at any time. The project also highlights sustainability, questioning how global food trends and climate change impact local food heritage. 

Ultimately, RELISH aims to create a platform where food experiences, cultural heritage, and sustainability intersect. 

How does RELISH approach food studies differently? 

Traditional food studies often focus on recipes, ingredients, and customs. RELISH takes a different approach:  we examine recipes not as cooking instructions but as cultural tools.  

We engage with food philosophers to explore how food shapes our identity and relationships. A key part is working with young people to understand their evolving relationship with food.  

Many food perceptions are formed in childhood, but after early education, there is little focus on food learning.  

University students often rely on quick meals and convenience foods, and may have limited opportunities to reflect on their food experiences. At the same time, food is often central to how young people socialise and create identity.  How might recipes as cultural tools shape, for example, how Durham students search for comfort foods that resonate with their upbringing, or how they eat with friends? 

What role does Durham University play in the project? 

Durham has a strong tradition of studying cultural heritage, making it the perfect place to explore food culture and its transformations.  

One of RELISH’s tasks includes research on medieval recipes to demonstrate how food heritage constantly evolves in the past and present. This perspective challenges the idea that preserving food traditions means keeping them unchanged— instead, we draw on lessons and recipes from the past to emphasise adaptation. 

Main image shows RELISH members enjoying the typical Catalan calçotada during their kick-off meeting in Barcelona, Spain. Credit: Janita Van Dyk 

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